Saturday, February 16, 2013

the SCOOP on Bourbon...




Rich amber color, aged to perfection, with that perfect amount of rich bite and smokey sweetness. No I'm not talking about Gouda cheese, (thats another blog) something much better, I'm talking about Kentucky Bourbon. The name actually originates from an area called "Old Bourbon" county Kentucky where bourbon has been distilled and produced since the 1800's. So how did it begin? Unfortunately, there's not a really any clear documentation on who the sole inventor was. Now being that said, there are a handful of "Kentuckians" that claim to be "the one" , and cliam to be more credible than the other, most vocal is probably Elijah Craig ( bourbon connoisseurs know who I'm talking about). The actual mass production bourbon distilling process started in Kentucky by Scottish immigrants in the late 18th century.

And so the process began, and through trial, lots of error, and a century long amount of recipe changes, bourbon became a flourishing industry in Kentucky. Currently, 97% of all bourbon in the US is distilled and aged somewhere near Bardstown, Kentucky. They call the area The Kentucky Bourbon Trail. It is home to the seven highest producing distilleries in The state: Four Roses, Heaven Hill, Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, Town Branch, Wild Turkey, and Woodford Reserve.


Some say that only the best bourbon comes from Kentucky. There actually might be some scientific truth to the claim. What...? Science to bourbon...? ...uh yeah! One of the secrets to Kentucky bourbon is the water. Fresh water, that actually is free of Iron, gets filtered through limestone that is only found in the area, it has been found to be a key step in the mash making process. But it all starts with grain. The most commonly used grain mixture starts with 70% corn, with an addition of a little wheat, or a little Rye, and sometimes even malted Barley. The grain is then ground down, and that beautiful regional water is added to create what they call "Mash". A special breed of yeast (and no it's not the same yeast you use to make the sweet yeast rolls you eat at the steakhouse covered in butter) is added and behold "fermentation" has begun.

The mixture now has a new name, called "the Wash". Now here is where it really gets all Nerdy, but probably one of the most crucial parts. Distillers at this step in the process actually add in strained wet solids from a {previous fermented batch} of "mash". Why in he world would they do that you ask? It's because of the natural acid pH. This addition helps control the bacteria growth in the {new} batch, creates pH balance, and helps boost the yeast that will eventually create sugars....whew! Even my brain is spinning a little.


Now, my favorite part of the picture, once cooked down, the "wash" is strained and added to brand new oak barrels ( or also called "casks"). But not before the barrels are charred on the inside. Just like in BBQ it's all about the smoke right?, well the concept is the same with bourbon. Each distiller has their own "recipe" for charring of the barrel. The bottom line is the charring is what creates that gorgeous amber color, and distinct flavor from the caramelized sugars that only charred oak can create. The clear liquid, now at approximately "60 proof" is added into the barrel, it's sealed up, and aging starts. The longer the age, the more mature the bourbon becomes. Young bourbon is aged around two years, where higher quality bourbons are aged from four to six years and even longer for "premiums". However, you can actually age it too long, so most distillers have a aging plan in place in order to pull the product, add purified water to create the desired "proof" and bottle it at the exact perfect time. The most common proof is pulled from the barrel here in the US is at "80 proof".

There are two terms in quality bourbons I won't touch on. Most often these ters are actually on the bottle label.


SINGLE BARREL- means that this bourbon is aged in one sole barrel then diluted with purified
water and bottled. There are a lot of bourbons on the market that once pulled from the barrel, the liquid is mixed with other aged barrels and other batches, diluted with water then bottled. So you can see how the quality level can be significantly different...So look for "single barrel" or " single cask" on the label.

CASK (official name for the barrel) STRENGTH- if you remember from above, water is added during normal bourbon making twice. Once, to create the "wash" , and the second, after aging, to dilute to the desired proof. However in Cask Strength, the second addition of water is omitted, giving the full flavor of the cask. Drinking this is kinda like being punched in the mouth, and loving every second of it.

Besides the obvious, mixed cocktail, on the rocks or straight up, where can it be utilized? ...I'm so glad you asked!... I love interactive readers! Sure, straight out of he bottle works fine, and I've "quality checked" my share, but there is a huge growing emergence in culinary applications that needs to be discussed. When it comes to food, and the addition of bourbon, the most common application has been in the dessert segment. Don't get me wrong I love dessert (those who know me can attest) so it's kinda like a perfect marriage right....Right! But why is this? Sweet with ...hard liquor, how does it mesh.. Great question. Break it down for a second, think about it, what kind of flavors do you get with bourbon? How about molasses, brown sugar, Caramel, pecan and even hints of vanilla. Those flavors partner beautifully with desserts. Why do think Kentucky Bourbon Pecan Pies sell so well....hmmm!


Like I said before, bourbon flavor is one of the growing flavor trends today. For example, flavor addition to marinades, sauces, glazes, soups, and even sides. Yes I said sides. Picture this for a second, tender baked beans-and how bourbon could enhance the added brown sugar and molasses. Now you have a richer and deeper flavor profile in a classic southern side dish. {i know you had a Ah-hah moment} One if the fastest growing uses for this Kentucky treat is in enhancing proteins. Bourbon glazed hams, bourbon marinated grilled chicken, and my personal favorite food group "bacon" is getting the love rub from bourbon. Why not, there's hickory smoked bacon, applewood smoked bacon, jalapeƱo bacon, cracked pepper bacon, why not a Bourbon bacon...hey, it "could" happen. I've always said bacon makes EVERYTHING better, even bourbon.


Picking the right bourbon to cook with is pretty important too. I know your about to head out to your local liquor store or grab your current bottle from the cabinet to prove my theory, but before you do, Some quick suggestions:

The higher the amount of "rye" in the recipe, the "spicer" the bourbon, - use this for dishes where you want a more pronounced flavor or will be counter balanced with a high fat addition (cream, butter etc..). {Wild Turkey, Elijah Craig-12yr}


The more wheat in the recipe ( called "wheaters" by bourbon snobs) will have more of a vanilla/caramel flavor tone. This is a pretty balanced, pretty versatile. { Makers Mark}


Last suggestion, make sure which ever one you choose, it's one that you would drink . Blended bourbons, and bourbon "flavored" liquors, are like buying "cooking wines" off the shelf of the local quick mart. Don't skimp on the good stuff....you won't be disappointed. Worst case scenario, just add to a clean empty glass.

"Until we Eat Again"
Chef Rob

Saturday, February 2, 2013


Febru-Berry

Fresh Berries

February is the National fresh berries month, now I know what your saying, "well Chef, July is blueberry month, what gives?" Answer is, we're both right - this month is a celebration to all things berry. Today we're going to focus on why I call the "Fab Four" - Strawberries, Blueberries, Raspberries and Blackberries. 

There's just nothing like fresh berries. So beautiful, vibrant, flavorful, and oh yeah...healthy too. So why is it when I go to the store or buy from my favorite food distributor, the prices fluctuate like a roller coaster ride at Six Flags throughout the year? And let's not forget I was just at the market last week and I swore I saw raspberries, now this week....nada!  Seriously? Bottom line is seasonality drives the price and availability, period. Climate temperature dictates growing season, some berries are more heat/cold sensitive than others. Basically, when berries are out of season...the availability drops and the ones that "can" be sourced are priced through the roof because the purveyor knows they are the only game in town. Now an additional variable: Organic - which means they are grown without the use of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides "BUT" you'll pay a serious premium by the way for the trouble. 

So below you'll find the fantastic factoids on the "Fab Four" Fruits.....say that three times fast!


STRAWBERRIES

Strawberries are the first berry that actually ripens fully in order to be harvested earliest in the year. And has the highest volume amount harvested and sold out of all berries in the US. There are more than 500 different varieties of Strawberries, however the "Earliglow" is the highest produced variety sold nationally. They are medium sized and have the perfect balance of sweet and tart. My favorite however is the "Alpine"- tiny bite sized strawberries that are insanely sweet.  Typically grown in France....go figure!

So now your off to the store and your standing there looking at the strawberry case, they look ok, but how do you know if they really are any good? 
1. Check for any mold spores on the surface.
2. Look for equally shaped berries within the pack.
3. Surface should be bright red and shiny. 
4. They should be clean and dry-leaves should not be brittle or wilted.
5. Finally, look for "white shoulders" or white tips - this means they were picked too early, and typically are more bitter.
Peak season is Apr-Jun.

Store in the refrigerator and only wash before eating. Don't wash, then store, because the berries will start to decompose immediately once moisture is introduced to their surface. They are like sponges.
High in: Potassium, Vitamin C, Iron, fiber, antioxidants and Folate.
1cup- 46 calories
1g- Protein
3G- Fiber

BLUEBERRIES

Now there's no denying it, Blueberries are possibly the most unique and healthy of the four. It's one of the only "true blue" colored naturally grown ingredients on the planet. North America produces 90% of the worlds blueberry crops. Over 38 states in the USA grow this tiny little beauty. Unlike the Strawberry, there are not as many varieties grown of the blueberry, in fact the most common variety grown is the "Highbush". Peak harvest is the "National Blueberry month" of July.

Shopping tips:
1. Check for any mold spores on the surface.
2. Berries should be dry on the surface, no busted, bruised or dented berries.
3. Pick the berries with a hazy white coating - also called "bloom."
When choosing blueberries, look for berries that are dry, plump, round and free of dents and bruises. Blueberries should have a soft, hazy white coating, which is called “bloom.” Completely natural part of the berries’ defense mechanism and helps protect them from the harsh rays of the sun.

You have two storage options:
Optimum - Refrigeration, consume within 5-7 days
                - Dry storage, consume within 24-36 hours

High in Manganese- helps convert protein, carbs and fats into energy, and are huge in antioxidants.
Per 1 cup serving:
14 mg - Vit C
 80 calories
1g- Protein
4G- Fiber

RASPBERRIES

Ahhh...the decadent raspberry, with it's beautiful flavor and eye catching plate appeal. To me, this berries visual appeal is the most socially wanted. Whether your dropping them into a glass to spruce up a beverage or reducing them down to make a sauce, it automatically adds value to your dish. There are about 60 or so varieties, most popular is the "Boyne" or the "Heritage". There are actually color varieties available if you can find them. Black raspberries and blue raspberries are hybrids that growers have been experimenting with for a while.....hmmmm interesting...that's what I think too. Now there is one other that has gained serious popularity by culinarian's, it's the "golden raspberry". Unlike the previous two it's a true raspberry that is an albino variety, with a little sweeter flavor. Now we're talking!  Peak harvest is in late summer/early fall.

Shopping:
1. Check for any mold spores on the surface.
2. Color should be consistent throughout pack-soft hazy gloss.
3. If you see little tiny hairs protruding from the berries- totally natural, and do not effect quality or flavor-they're called "styles".

High in potassium, Vitamin C, Iron, and Folate
Unfortunately because Raspberries are very time sensitive, storage after purchase is as follows:
Optimum - Refrigeration, consume within 2-3 days


                - Dry storage, consume within 24-36 hours

1cup- 60 calories
1g- Protein
8G- Fiber
1g- FAT



BLACKBERRIES

Nick named "black caps" in the South.

These wonderfully tart, almost red wine like flavors red berry, has such a cool profile that home cooks and chefs alike have grown to love. Pay attention to menus when dining out, you'll see more and more blackberry influences in not just dessert offerings but entree sauces too. The most common trend I've seen lately is the introduction of this succulent berry into the BBQ and Condiment segment. The blackberry is very similar to the raspberry, however unlike the hollow cavity of the raspberry, the "bramble" or center stem portion remains intact and is consumed with the rest of the berry. Mexico produces the majority of the worlds crop, second is Oregon.

Blackberries are one of the only fruit that actually has thorns surrounding the berries. This keeps wildlife from grazing during growing season. The USA actually has created a hybrid "Triple Crown"  that grows without the thorns....modern technology....what will they think of next. Most common variety harvested is the "Marion" and the "Chehalem".


Shopping
1. Check for any mold spores on the surface.
2. Look for berries that are dark and uniform in color. They commonly do have some hint of deep red on a few clusters...its perfectly acceptable. They are actually more red in color until just before fully ripe.
3. Berries should be plump and dry. No dents or broken pods. 

Very fragile, when washing.
Storage:
Optimum - Refrigeration, consume within 2-3 days
                - Dry storage, consume within 24-36 hours

Huge in Antioxidants and fiber.
Contains Salicylic Acid which acts very much like aspirin, healing body pains and fever...


THE BERRY CONCLUSION 

The truth, besides bacon and chocolate, fresh berries are a must have in every kitchen. Regardless of your preference, the possibilities are endless. So whether your a purist and only want them in their raw form, or want to find any conceivable way to incorporate them into your molecular gastronomy menu, berries can quench that hunger. 

Until we eat again...

Chef Rob